Now this is not the main reason for this article, but I want to explain a little history.

I had dreams of making an income from advertisements on the site. I soon found out, this is a difficult way to make an income online. Most readers of blogs come to read and do not even notice the ads. I then put the “Donate” button on the sidebar and then on the bottom of each post. Some readers have been kind and I do receive a donation at times, but this is not enough to support myself, my family or really cover the time and costs of this site.

I have mentioned my architectural experiences in articles and had a few who have inquired about me doing design, full construction documents for permitting and even managing construction. I have done a few designs and then never went further. I have wondered if my free designs were giving to someone else or not, I never made any money for my time.

I started this site mainly to journal my life as an American living in Davao, hence the name American in Davao.  At first, many of my articles and photos were about my family and my life. Over time, I have developed to write more about how life is here for a Foreigner in third world country.  I try to tell the truth and not “sugar coating” what observations or advice.  There are many wonderful parts to living here, but there are difficulties too. I have tried to assist people to understand how to conduct themselves here and how to be careful in different situations. Many times my wife Elena has assisted too.

Over time, I have had many comments or direct emails asking for advice, information or even assistance. I have helped visitors find accommodations, helped locate restaurants, doctors and shopping. I have had many emails from future Expats-to-be or from men with online girlfriends who were planning to move here and I have offered any assistance I can give.

Last month I was surprised when I received an email from an International Relocation Service. They had a client company sending a representative here to Davao to open a branch office. I was offered the position as a consultant to assist this person find acceptable accommodations such as a furnished house or apartment, obtaining a bank account, services and a list of restaurants, entertainment, attractions and activities.  I would be paid for expenses, mileage and an hourly rate for a preset number of hours.  The hourly rate was good even if I was in the states.

I accepted the offer and then started trying to locate high-end furnished rentals. This was no easy task. It is not like in the states with magazines and classifieds listing all the apartments and houses for rent. There are some websites that individual real estate agents have, but sometimes they do not have decent descriptions, places shown are already rented or the furnishings are not what would be desired. I felt it was my responsibility to visit as many as I could before this man arrived. I did not want to embarrass myself by bringing him to a location and discovering there was problems.

In addition, many real estate agents do not want to show a property to someone in my position with the fear I would steal the business and they would lose their commission. I did locate a few on my own and found some to be below the standard needed and one that was great. I also planned to show him a place that would be good for a temporary   residence until we could find something better.  To make this long story shorter, we found a place he liked and with my wife’s help, we negotiated a good price.

During this process, I received an email from a man planning to come here in the near future and asked, from reading my site, if I offer any services.  I told him I could offer myself and car for transportation around town, help him find accommodations and local attractions he might enjoy. I told him I would not help him find women or clubs where he can find women.

This man replied he was coming to meet his online girlfriend and offered to pay me to drive them to different attractions in the city. He stated he did not want to ride Jeepneys or has to worry about hiring drivers and/or taxis where language could present a problem.

Today I met a person who is somewhat new to the city. While we were talking about these services, he told me, if he had known about me before he moved here, he would have liked to have someone who could have assisted him finding an apartment, finding and purchasing furnishings and even getting services such as cable and internet. He said he would have had no problem paying me for my time assisting him.

Another friend I have made is planning to come visit his girlfriend he met online. Her birthday is soon and asked if my wife would assist him in buying her a present. He sent us the funds for the purchase. Elena was happy to assist. For this, he offered to take us to dinner once here and to bring both of us certain items we would like from the States.

Some people I have met through this site have offered remuneration, bringing me items from the states I might need, or just a nice dinner with my wife. All of these offers have been nice.  Even though I would like to earn a steady income, being able to assist fellow foreigners with needs, information or advice is something I am enjoying and will continue to do so. If there is a way to assist and earn, I am not against that either. From these few earnings and from the donations I have received it makes me feel it was the right thing to keep this site going and continue the time to write articles and answer comments.

It is also all my visitors to my site that shows me this site has a need and a worth.  Even though it is difficult to find items to write the three articles I try to publish every week, I will do so as long as I am able.

Thank you all for showing me my effort and work is appreciated.

Online I found statistics for 2006. In this year, the number of registered motorcycles was 2,409,363 whereas the amount of cars was 792,373. I do not know if this number includes public vehicles known where there is a miniature bus powered by a motorcycle welded in the middle or a sidecar that seats four to six passengers.

There are many motorcycles with a welded attachment on the side like a flat bed for delivering merchandise. I have even lately seen what looks like a small delivery truck from the rear and once you see the front, it has a motorcycle seat and handlebars and powered by a motorcycle engine.

Besides these modified motorcycles, many times you see a normal motorcycle with anything imaginable being transported. I have seen a rider, facing the rear, holding a large TV on his lap.

Thanks to a friend of mine, he allowed me to use some photos he has collected over the years showing a normal motorcycle delivering many different items. As you might noticed, not all or maybe any are from the Philippines. Many are from Viet Nam, China and other Asian countries.

I know this is not one of my in-depth and thoughtful observances, but something I hope you will enjoy.

I have written many times how I have been well treated by clerks in the Palengke, or at someone’s home. You will be offered part of their meal if you greet them while they are eating. If you stop by someone’s home, the first thing they will do is offer you a seat and then no matter how poor they are, they start preparing something to eat, or one member of the family will run out to bring back a cold beverage or something to eat. At times, the will spend money they cannot afford just to show how you are a welcomed guest in their home.

But this is not always the case. When you’re on the move, driving a car or walking in a store or mall, watch out. If someone sees a space, they will take it before you do. Driving is a game of “I am here first” or “you waited too long.” There are many times if there is no oncoming vehicles and someone is a few cars back from an intersection they want to turn left, they pull out into the oncoming lanes, drive down the road and make their turn. If the road is four lanes, two each way, and someone needs to make a left, a drive will nose in and stop the left oncoming lane and stopping traffic wait until they can nose into the right lane to stop them and make their turn. At times this will cause a total gridlock. There will be so many cars blocking cars in every direction and the matrix continues to build up as more cars pull in to take a space it will take a guard or traffic enforcer to break it up. Then, because of the lack of officers that can enforce a traffic problem and issue a citation, many drivers just ignore them.

In America, we do something we call a weaving. If there are cars entering a road, and the cars going straight are creeping along, we alternate letting someone in. Or if two lanes have to merge into one lane, again we most alternate allowing a car to merge into your lane. Not here in the Philippines. If there are a lot of cars making the turn or merging, as the first one goes, everyone behind follows, no matter how many cars.

This is not only a problem while driving. Elena and I go do our marketing together. At times, while pushing the cart, if I pause a moment and there is a space in front of me, someone will just walk in front of you or nose their cart in. Then if there is someone in front of them, they cannot move forward, and I cannot move because they now blocked me.

In the States you give people space as they are transacting business. Once I was in the donut shop. There was only one clerk behind the counter and a lady was giving her order. I stood back with about a one body space to let them transact their business. While waiting for my turn, a woman walks in front of me and then presses up to the counter and starts calling out her order even though the clerk was still taking the other ladies order.

Even at banks there is this system. To me, banking is personal and I do not want someone else listening to my transaction. Well here, if you need to conduct business at the area where you need to sit with the bank employee, there are usually two chairs facing each other in front of each of the bank personnel.  If you’re at the bank alone and conducting your business, someone will sit in the chair facing you and either just listens to your transaction, or at times will interrupt and try to get the clerk to take their transaction. It is not just because I am a foreigner; I see it happen all the time. I try not to upset people and show anger, but at times I will just look at them and turn to the clerk to keep her attention towards me.

Even in stores, you might be being helped by a salesclerk, someone will walk up and start asking a question or for help finding something. You do not hear an “excuse me” or an apology. They just do not want to wait and do not care if you were there first. Again, it is not just to foreigners, it is a common practice.

Now, you can get upset, raise your voice and say you were there first, but why get people upset. Most of the time I am not rushed and do not want to make a scene. If I am in a bad mood, or rushed, I will calmly look over and explain I was there first and please wait their turn.

At times I am pleased and happy when someone ahead of me on line has a cart full of items, and I have only one will be offered to get ahead of them instead of having to wait. Also, a few times I have asked the person in front of me and they usually smile and let me.

Now, these are things different in our culture and common in theirs. Are we right and they are wrong. From our perspective yes, and it is common courtesy. But, it is not in their culture so they are right because that is the way life exists here.

At times, I have heard or I have thought we foreigners can teach businesses better customer service and efficiency in their operations. But just like many other differences here, it is their

Last Wednesday the foreigner group I belong to, Friends of Mindanao, made a road trip to Agusan del Norte to visit the home of one of our members, Richard and Jesa. Their home is in Agusan which is about a 3 hour drive north of Davao. We arraigned for two private vans to accommodate the 20 members and their wives/girlfriends.

We met at a local shopping mall parking lot, where our cars would be safe for the day, early and we left about 7 a.m. Because of the early departure, we stopped about an hour into our trip in Tagum for a light breakfast at Jollibee. I was surprised with my order. I do not like fried eggs, which was on all their egg breakfasts except their Pancake Sandwich with sausage egg and cheese. I was surprised, the savory taste of the sausage and the sweetness of the pancake.

After our breakfast it was back on the road to Agusan. With all of us in the vans the conversation was good and the trip was not too bad. I was in the rear and it did get warm but tolerable.

After about 2 more hours we arrived. The house sits up on a hill and with the weight of the van they decided to leave the vans at the lower area. With this we had to climb the steps up to paradise.

Once on top I got to see why they named the place “New Eden” because it was beautiful. They had 2 huge aviaries; a long bamboo pole going from a high dog enclosure angled down for a cute little monkey chained but able to move around. The monkey at first intimidated us by his growl and jumping off the pole towards us until he reached the end of the chain. Eventually Richard came over and was holding and petting the monkey and showed how friendly he was. I took the challenge and walked over. The little guy climbed over to my arm and let me pet him until he decided to climb up my arm and around. He started giving me friendly love bites to my arm and I decided to put him back before he decided I might be a tasty snack.

Then I saw a beautiful landscaped area with a nice size pool. There was a covered sitting area to the side of the pool to relax and a big patio off the rear of the house.

Richard and Jesa made us at home right away with smiles, hugging and cool beverages for all. We all relaxed at the different seating areas and relaxed. After a while we were called in for the feast they put out for us and after a short prayer it was come and get it. They had of salad, fried chicken, spaghetti and chili con carne to pour over the pasta, there was a type of shell fish that looked like tiny conch shells and of course a huge lechon (grilled whole pig). There was also fresh pineapple and watermelon.

A little while after lunch some of the guests put on their swimming attire and went into the pool for some cooling fun and relaxation. I was just being lazy and just relaxed and enjoyed conversation with some friends I do not see often.
Well, the afternoon progressed and before we realized it, it was time to pack up and head back to Davao. With big thanks to our hosts and sad feelings of leaving such a wonderful place, we all got back into the vans for our ride home.  We stopped along the way at a nice roadside stop for a snack and then back to the traffic and congestion of Davao City.

Even though it was nice to be home, I sure missed the country feeling being so far away in such a beautiful location. If Richard and Jesa read this, I thank you so very much for opening your home for us all to enjoy. It was a wonderful day for us all and your kindness unsurpassed.

Most drivers drive very aggressively. They will force a 3rd lane in 2 lanes going in one direction. They will drive up on parking lot entries to pass vehicles on the right. IF their 2 lanes of a 4 lane road are stopped, and they are in a hurry, they will go into incoming traffic lanes to pass the stopped vehicles in their own lanes. Also consideration and courtesy is practically nonexistent here.

Also you will see jeepneys change lanes with no signals and taxi drivers making U-turns in the middle of the road to get a possible passenger.

Besides that you have many motorcycles passing on the left, the right and weaving across traffic with no regard for anyone.

I had commented to someone, with all the craziness, I am surprised there are not more accidents. A friend pointed out that traffic drives slower than in the States, which is true. You rarely see high speed driving.  I do notice, as in the States, drivers with big, full size SUV’s and pickup trucks driving with a higher speed and an “I am bigger than you” and “King of the Road” attitudes.

I would best describe that you need a defensive aggressive attitude when driving. Especially when you want to cross traffic to make a turn or trying to enter a main road from a side street. At these times you need to inch your way into traffic and hope they will be courteous and let you in. Or you inch enough that oncoming drivers will let you in because there is not enough room for them.

I have also noticed most of the times directionals are not noticed but if you use a hand signal when you want to move over to the left lane most drivers will let you over.

Another situation is at intersections with a traffic light and a turning lane with a left turn light. Many drivers going straight will go into the left turning lane to get a jump on the traffic but at times get stopped with someone waiting to turn left.

A problem I have heard over and over is at an intersection with a “Yield on Green” sign and being stopped by a traffic official for making the turn. They do not understand and probably never taught what “Yield” means. This will be less of a problem now since the TMC (Traffic Management Office) personnel, who direct traffic at intersections no longer, have the ability to give traffic violations.

Some things to know that are different in the States is that it is illegal to move into an intersection to wait to make a left turn from a turning lane. Here you must wait before the intersection for traffic to open up.

My best advice is to take it easy at first, observe how others drive, but remember, if you’re a foreigner, you are considered wrong in most cases, even if you’re right.

I will describe using the theory of being on the right side of the road, not the English system of driving on the left.

Defensive driving is the key. You need to watch the vehicles in front of you, next to you and behind you. I will describe using the theory of being on the right side of the road, not the English system of driving on the left.

In America and I would guess most countries you stay in the right or slow lane except to pass. This is a habit I am constantly trying to break. Here the right lane stops constantly because of Jeepneys stopping to pick of or discharge passengers.

You need to use side mirrors constantly because motorcycles will pass on your left, right or in front of you. Even if you’re in the right lane they will squeeze alone the curb.

If you’re driving off the main 4 lane roads and come to an intersection, slow down, vehicles will cross the intersection without looking. They will cut through a corner gas station instead of going to the corner.

If you come to an intersection and you want to make a left turn you either have to wait for a break in traffic but you might have to wait a long time. The other way is slowly nose your way in.

If there is a TMC Officer directing traffic to enter a main road from a side road, and your making a left turn, he will stop traffic coming from left but not from the right, so as you enter to make the turn watch oncoming traffic from the right.

At Malls, schools, Churches on Sunday mornings and heavy rider areas there will be many Jeepneys looking for customers. As you get near, get to left lane and watch for Jeepneys pulling out to get into traffic or to pass others.

Passing is a constant way of driving. If you’re on a 2 lane road and behind a slow moving tricycle or any slow moving vehicle, you will probably want to pass them. Also when you’re driving watch out for incoming traffic passing someone in your lane. This is also a problem on the bigger hi-ways with trucks and buses will jump into oncoming lanes to pass traffic.

You also need to watch out for pedestrians, they will cross streets anywhere. There are pedestrian crossing lanes but I have never seen traffic stop for anyone crossing the street.

In Davao there is LTO Officers (Land Transportation Office) but mostly you will see TMC Officers (Traffic Management Center). They will me at intersections and at heavy traffic locations. They will blow their whistles to get traffic to move or to stop. Hand signals are confusing. To get you to move, they do not usually use large arm signals. There is also no rule or consent. Mostly I see a partially outstretched hand, palm down and finger movement like a hand wave such as an upturned hand used to call a baby or child.

Also if you drive at night, not all streets are lighted and many vehicles do not turn on their lights. I was told to have my windows tinted. I started out with medium tint on windshield and dark sides and rear. Because of the loss of visibility at night I had the side window tint trimmed off to see the side mirrors and the lower part of windshield changed to a mirror coating that is clear at night so you can see. Even with that I have almost rear ended vehicles on dark street with no lights at all.

There is very little courtesy or consideration from most drivers, so you need to be very defensive. At first you will get stressed and upset, you will want to scream but remember, this is how things are here. You cannot change it, so accept it and go on with your life. Or else, use public transportation.

Motorcycles have been used and modified in many ways. Motorcycles have added to them sidecars for cargo, commuting, and also as power for larger vehicles. There is also an extended platform on the rear of the seat to accommodate extra passengers.

For passenger uses, it is not uncommon to see 3, 4, or even 5. Ladies will sit sideways if wearing a skirt. I have seen passengers holding dogs, small cchildren and babies. In the provinces they even have a modification called Skylab. That is where they put a board across the seat or a platform around the bike to hold more passengers. Many will ride without helmets and in shorts and flip-flops.

There is was a new law from LTO (Land Transportation Office) that there can be no more than 2 persons on a bike, no flip-flops, no young children but the law is not enforced.  For helmets you will see many wearing some so flimsy, they look like baseball batters helmets with chin straps.

Besides the lack of safe helmets and too many passengers, many drivers are insane. They will pass you on the left, the right and weave from one side to the other. There have been times, crossing the street with stopped traffic, you almost get hit by a motorcycle zooming alone the right side of the traffic. They will come up and swerve in front of you as a light turns green and you’re hitting the gas to get going. They will also pass traffic on the left by moving into incoming traffic lanes. There are many driving with no license, but getting a drivers license in the Philippines is another interesting topic.

Unmodified motorcycles are used for delivery. Tanks of propane, sheets of glass, even pizza or McDonald’s burgers.  Then there are the modified. There are bikes with welded sidecars. You will see them loaded with cases of soda, beer, cases of product going down the roads.

Then there are the ones for public transportation. The smallest has a side car that seats 2 facing forward. Then there are some with a rear bench seat to accommodate 2 more. These are not enclosed and have a canvas roof.

Then there are the metal enclosed ones. Some the motorcycle is on the side and some the cycle is in the middle looking like a van body over the bike. You can hear the strain of the little 125cc engine whining as it tries to get up a hill with 10 passengers. These units have an open door in the rear, open window openings on the sides and little side door openings for passengers to squeeze in on each side of the driver. Some have clear vinyl window and door coverings to roll down if it rains.

For us taller foreigners, you need to sit with your back bent and head down so it does not bounce off the roof. Sometimes you’re lucky if they have a canvas top.

All day long, no matter where you are you hear the buzzing whining engines, unless you’re in an upscale gated subdivision and they are not allowed.

Newer Tricycle

Typical Jeepney

This morning, one of my nieces told us she would not be able to go to school because of a Jeepney Strike. Without Jeepneys operating usually classes are closed at the colleges since students will not be able to get there. Since she was not sure if classes were canceled, I drove here to School. Even with no running Jeppneys traffic was bad, but not compared to usual days.

If you do not know most public transportation is by Jeepneys, MultiCabs and Tricycles. I know someone will tell me other names, and I know there are, but these are what I use and been told.

Tricycles are for short local rides in subdivisions or short distances. Most have actually 4 wheels, 2 from the motorcycle that powers  and 2 rear wheels. There are some small ones made up of a motorcycle and a small sidecar with seating for 2 or 4. The larger ones look like a minivan with a motorcycle welded to the chassis.

Multicab

Jeepneys are like elongated Jeeps where you climb in the rear and can hold approximately 18 passengers with bench type seating on each side. There are also Multicabs which are like small truck or Van where the cargo area has bench seats on each side too but only hold about 12 passengers.

There are not official stops, they just pull over to the curb whenever someone waves for a ride or to discharge riders. Here the main streets can get clogged with the all vehicles weaving and passing around other Jeepneys stopping and going. This also causes lots of horn honking and cars, trucks and motorcycles squeezing over of moving into the next lane.

Well this morning the drivers went on strike to protest new fines. The LTO (Land Transportation Office) increased fines for the drivers. This is to reduce unsafe driving.

The Fines and infractions are:

Based on the new penalty scheme, a person driving under the influence of drugs will be fined P10,000 and his driver’s license possibly getting revoked. Driving under the influence of liquor gets a P5,000 fine.
The new order also imposes higher penalties for the following violations:
* Driving without license, P1,500
* Driving with an expired license, P400
* Failure to carry a license, P200
* Possessing a fake driver’s license, P2,000
* Conviction of a crime using a motor vehicle, P3,000

For operating or driving an unregistered or improperly registered vehicle, a fine of P2,000 will be imposed on the driver if he uses the vehicle without the knowledge and consent of the owner. If the driver is also the owner of the vehicle, he will have to pay P4,000.
The news says some of these are a 300% increase. As stated in the article and my feelings are why complain about the fines if you follow the laws. As paraphrasing an old saying “Don’t do the Crime if you cannot afford the Fine”

For more information, see the Sun Star article online

.

When I moved here my fiancée Elena told me I must have a car. I would have been happy just riding Jeepneys and taxis. It would probably been cheaper too.

Recently gasoline came down in price to 44.40 pesos per liter which is $4.19 per gallon. Also with all the traffic even my little Kia only gets about 20 miles per gallon.

Some of the main roads are in such a condition you wonder if you have a low or flat tire. Off the main roads you will find much worse conditions too.

Where we live we are on a dirt road. When not raining the car every morning is covered in dust. When raining there is mud pools, some so big it would make a pig squeal in excitement.

There are also roads that once were concrete but now just broken pieces in all different angles.
To driving here, there is very little driver courtesy. Being a good driver from America, I have the habit of staying in the right lane except for passing. Here the right lane is constantly stopping for a Jeepney letting off or taking on passengers. If in left lane you get stopped when a driver needs to turn left.

If you need to change lanes not many drivers will slow down to let you in. Same if you’re trying to turn onto a main road. You need to nose your way in carefully and hope someone stops to let you in. It is especially difficult if you need to make a left turn onto a main 4 lane road.

In America when there is traffic trying to merge into another road, they do what is called “weaving.” That is when the drivers alternate letting cars merge. One merges then one going straight goes and so on and so on. Not here, once one goes, all the cars behind them follows through. The same is at an intersection, once on forces his way in, all the traffic behind follows, then as the last car makes the turn, any cars wanting to turn from the oncoming traffic squeezes in and all of them make their turn.

If you come to a major intersection and there is a left turn lane with a working traffic light, the turning lane here is used as an extra lane to wait to go straight once the light turns green.

If there is a big backup of traffic, usually seen Sundays when people are getting off or on Jeepneys at Church, the drivers take over the left lane of oncoming traffic. That then causes a backup from the other direction waiting for the drivers to get back over after the tie-up.

There are also bicycles with some kind of wheeled storage on the front, some are for small deliveries, some selling ice cream and some that go around picking up recycle items. These can be found peddling down the main road slowing traffic.

Surprisingly there are not a lot of accidents, but if there is one, or there is a disabled car with a flat tire or engine trouble, the backup will be for miles or kilometers.

Some major intersections have traffic cops directing traffic, but most are ignored and they end up causing gridlock.

There are also vehicles still using leaded gasoline here and also there is emission test centers but I do not know who gets tested and if there is any forced repairs since you see many vehicles sending out plumes of black smoke.

Good thing I have air conditioning in the car because the smell of exhaust is so bad your eyes will burn. Now I know why so many pass away here with respiratory problems.

Parking is hard here except malls some businesses parking slots in front of their business and have uniformed guard’s. They will try to stop traffic to help a customer back out of the slot into traffic.

So to paraphrase an old saying “Driving here is not a chore, it is an Adventure”

Driving here is a crazy adventure. First of all there are many Jeepneys, MultiCabs, MotorCabs, Pedicabs, private cars and motorcycles that the traffic congestion looks worse than the Los Angeles Freeways during rush hour.

Entering a main road is like a roll of the dice. There is very little driver courtesy. What you have to do is inch into traffic until an oncoming driver realizes either let you in or have an accident.

Everyone tries to ride on the left of a 2 lane road since Jeepneys and other public transports keep stopping on the right lane to take on or let off passengers. If you by chance switch to the right to pass a few cars and get stuck behind a stopping Jeepney, you might have to wait for him to move again since nobody will let you back into the left. If both lanes are stopped due to congestion, watch out for the space between the cars because some driver will try to make it 3 lanes. Then if there is no oncoming traffic, a lot of drivers will drive on the oncoming left lane.

There are traffic cops at some major intersections, but they will stop oncoming traffic next to an intersection, but let’s and waves on the left turning traffic and the through traffic too.

People on bicycles drive in the center next to oncoming traffic to avoid the stopping jeepneys. Motorcycles will drive everywhere except the sidewalks.

For a while the city has been installing traffic lights on major intersections but has yet to power most up. They have also added turning lanes. The problem with the turning lanes is they have not widened the roads; they made the other lanes narrower. A left turn lane is used for a 3rd lane and then they all squeeze back and fight for a space as they pass the intersection.

I am very surprised on how few traffic accidents there are here. Oh yes, there are accidents but with all the traffic and weaving back and forth there should be many every day. Well thank GOD there isn’t since an accident adds more congestion to an already congested city.

With all said, traffic here is wonderful compared to Manila. There it is 10 times worse.

I heard a funny story. A Filipino taxi driver moved to the US. He went to get his driver’s license and failed the driving test 7 times. So he moved back to the Philippines.