I have written many times how I have been well treated by clerks in the Palengke, or at someone’s home. You will be offered part of their meal if you greet them while they are eating. If you stop by someone’s home, the first thing they will do is offer you a seat and then no matter how poor they are, they start preparing something to eat, or one member of the family will run out to bring back a cold beverage or something to eat. At times, the will spend money they cannot afford just to show how you are a welcomed guest in their home.

But this is not always the case. When you’re on the move, driving a car or walking in a store or mall, watch out. If someone sees a space, they will take it before you do. Driving is a game of “I am here first” or “you waited too long.” There are many times if there is no oncoming vehicles and someone is a few cars back from an intersection they want to turn left, they pull out into the oncoming lanes, drive down the road and make their turn. If the road is four lanes, two each way, and someone needs to make a left, a drive will nose in and stop the left oncoming lane and stopping traffic wait until they can nose into the right lane to stop them and make their turn. At times this will cause a total gridlock. There will be so many cars blocking cars in every direction and the matrix continues to build up as more cars pull in to take a space it will take a guard or traffic enforcer to break it up. Then, because of the lack of officers that can enforce a traffic problem and issue a citation, many drivers just ignore them.

In America, we do something we call a weaving. If there are cars entering a road, and the cars going straight are creeping along, we alternate letting someone in. Or if two lanes have to merge into one lane, again we most alternate allowing a car to merge into your lane. Not here in the Philippines. If there are a lot of cars making the turn or merging, as the first one goes, everyone behind follows, no matter how many cars.

This is not only a problem while driving. Elena and I go do our marketing together. At times, while pushing the cart, if I pause a moment and there is a space in front of me, someone will just walk in front of you or nose their cart in. Then if there is someone in front of them, they cannot move forward, and I cannot move because they now blocked me.

In the States you give people space as they are transacting business. Once I was in the donut shop. There was only one clerk behind the counter and a lady was giving her order. I stood back with about a one body space to let them transact their business. While waiting for my turn, a woman walks in front of me and then presses up to the counter and starts calling out her order even though the clerk was still taking the other ladies order.

Even at banks there is this system. To me, banking is personal and I do not want someone else listening to my transaction. Well here, if you need to conduct business at the area where you need to sit with the bank employee, there are usually two chairs facing each other in front of each of the bank personnel.  If you’re at the bank alone and conducting your business, someone will sit in the chair facing you and either just listens to your transaction, or at times will interrupt and try to get the clerk to take their transaction. It is not just because I am a foreigner; I see it happen all the time. I try not to upset people and show anger, but at times I will just look at them and turn to the clerk to keep her attention towards me.

Even in stores, you might be being helped by a salesclerk, someone will walk up and start asking a question or for help finding something. You do not hear an “excuse me” or an apology. They just do not want to wait and do not care if you were there first. Again, it is not just to foreigners, it is a common practice.

Now, you can get upset, raise your voice and say you were there first, but why get people upset. Most of the time I am not rushed and do not want to make a scene. If I am in a bad mood, or rushed, I will calmly look over and explain I was there first and please wait their turn.

At times I am pleased and happy when someone ahead of me on line has a cart full of items, and I have only one will be offered to get ahead of them instead of having to wait. Also, a few times I have asked the person in front of me and they usually smile and let me.

Now, these are things different in our culture and common in theirs. Are we right and they are wrong. From our perspective yes, and it is common courtesy. But, it is not in their culture so they are right because that is the way life exists here.

At times, I have heard or I have thought we foreigners can teach businesses better customer service and efficiency in their operations. But just like many other differences here, it is their

After we go home and relax a little and then shower and head out to Gaisano Mall, the nicer mall that is close to our home. Well because of the Kadayawan Festivities as decided to go to SM City mall in Ecoland. SM City is the newest mall in the city with the most modern look to it.

After we had lunch, we headed into the Market. Elena was to start shopping and I was going to buy my cigarettes. As they scanned the carton (ream as called here) a price showed that made me gasp. It was 360 pesos. Prices do vary somewhat and I do not mind a few peso difference but Gaisano charges 313 pesos. Other prices are 314 at Victoria and 316 at the new Robinsons Cybergate.

After I walked out of the liquor and cigarette area and met up with Elena, she was seeing the same problem with food items. A lot of the items are 5 pesos or more higher then we pay at Gaisano. You might be saying, what is the big deal 5 pesos is only approximately $00.10 USD.

Yes, I remember when I first visited here and compared prices in America and thought everything was so cheap, I had no problems buying anything I wanted.  But, when I visited the Philippines, I was still employed and making a decent salary. Then when I moved here, at first I continued that thought about the prices.  Well, after you have lived here for a while and on a fixed income, a peso here and a peso there add up.

Even with restaurants, when you first move here, and have not gotten used to a more Filipino style of eating, you go to the more continental style of restaurants and have no problem spending 400 to 500 pesos for an entrée. To you, 500 pesos is only about $10 and you will think about how the same plate of food would cost so much more back in your home country. This is true, but for me, at those times I had a job and was making a lot more money too.

Now, if you were smart in the old life and invested, saved and built up a nice investment portfolio and your receiving you’re Social Security and maybe other pensions, that is great. But most foreigners who have moved here did not do that and have a smaller monthly income. Many move here without visiting before and had heard or read from others that you can live here on $1000. Yes, you probably can, but you will not have a large home, or even a 2 story townhouse. With that income you will be living in a small apartment with the basic needs.

One of the best ways and hardest thing to do is change your mind set to a peso mentality. What I do, since I still at times convert the amount into dollars is I think about what I pay for lunch here or there. What I spent before at another place or what else I need to do that week. If I spent a large amount on the weekend, I eat home or eat at an inexpensive place if out lunchtime.  For instance, lunch for 2 at McDonalds it will cost close to 300 pesos. There is a Chinese style Filipino restaurant around town named Mandarin. There 2 people can have a nice lunch for 200 pesos or less.

Just as I talked in the beginning about going to the Palengke to do our shopping for meats, fish, vegetables and fruits. There prices are less than the Mall markets and I notice the quality of the fruits and vegetables are much fresher too.

Some will also think, well I will spend more now and reduce my lifestyle as time goes on. You need to consider costs of things that will pop up; medical, family emergencies especially if you’re married or living with a Filipina, her family tree extends in many branches and they all will come to you for help. Then there is always the change of the peso conversion. When I visited here the rate was 50 pesos to the dollar but when I moved here it was down to around 40. Now it has been staying in the high 47 to lower 48 ranges. You need to put money aside for those times the rate drops and we can just hope it never drops and stays down, then we will all be living on a diet of rice and dried fish.

In the Philippines, there are many bargains; you just need to know how and where. The first rule of advice is sending your Filipina wife or girlfriend to go alone. If they see a foreigner, the price might actually go up.

The worst places to ask is in the department stores or the chain mall shops. You might be able to get a small discount, but most store managers to not have the freedom to give any decent discounts.

In Davao and in most of the cities there are street side stalls and others that rent spaces on sidewalls or even parking areas in the larger parking lots. There are also locations in some of the cheaper or older malls where one store area is divided with small individual stalls. Also there are areas called Ukay Ukay. These are outdoor shops along the streets. Some are covered, some with just a tarp. There are used clothes and also you can find new items, sometimes with the labels still on them. In these shops, stalls or sidewalk stands you can find clothes, cell phones, Chinese pottery and most everything. These are the places to bargain.

If you have never bargained before, let me give you a little hint; start low. If an item is priced 100 pesos, offer 20. They will say no, and drop to maybe 80 pesos. Keep bargaining until they will not go lower and then tell them no and start to walk away. You can then get it lower. When I first came to Davao, I needed to go to a wedding. I needed a pair of black dress shoes. I had shoes in my shipment of things and since I knew I would rarely need dress shoes living here, I was not going to spend a lot of money for a decent pair of shoes. One day we were downtown and near one of the big Ukay Ukay areas, we decided to look. Form me; especially here in the Philippines, it is hard to find my size. I wear a size 12 E width, and I had enough trouble finding them in stock in America. Well, the second stall we looked in, they had a pair of Florsheim black wingtips size 12 E and the soles were still smooth and no scratches. They were never worn. I asked the girl the price and was told 100 pesos; that is about $2.00 USD. Those shoes would be over $100 in the States. I looked at the girl and said 20 pesos. She smiled as she shook her head and replied 80 pesos. I then offered 40 pesos and she said 70. As I shook my head and stared to walk away, she said, ok, 40 pesos. That is about $0.80 USD.

There are many stalls and even people walking around selling fruit, cheap little kids toys and even pirated DVD’s in cases looking like originals. I do not remember what they sell for, but if your persistent, or if you offer to buy more than one, you can get them for about ¾ of their price, maybe less.

In the parking lot at one of the malls there is a few stalls selling Chinese porcelain vases, big ginger jars and framed art with raised jade looking carvings. Elena wanted to buy the tall vases about 4 feet tall. While I was talking to friends in the mall, Elena went over to check the prices. She was told 7000 pesos ($145 USD) for one she liked. She offered 3000 ($62 USD) and eventually was told, if the boss lady walked away, they would sell it for the price. Elena mentioned she needed to ask her husband and left. I told her we should get 2 and place one on each side of our entertainment center. We went back later in the afternoon and I parked away from the area. Elena offered 5000 pesos for 2 of them. They first told her 7000, then 6000 and then the lowest they would go was 5800. Elena said no and started to walk away and they finally agreed and she bought the two for 5000 pesos ($103 USD)

Do not be nasty, just persistent and friendly. For higher price objects like the vases, just say your low price is all the money you have. Even workers you hire, you can bargain the price. Especially if you’re a foreigner discussing the deal, they have already raised the price with the “Foreigner tax.” Be strong but friendly and they will lower their price. Never take the first discount they give you. Once you have worked with them before, you can haggle a little, but do not go to crazy.

The first thing we noticed was the lack of parking. We were lucky someone was pulling out along the curb and the guards said it was ok. I tried to count and figured there are only about 80 parking spaces available even though they report 100.

Along the outside there were some little restaurants with some outdoor seating. There is a wide sidewalk with outdoor tables which gives an inviting look for stopping to eat and relax as you watch the world go by. There is Bangkok Wok, Rai Rai Ken, Mang Inasal, a coffee shop Tata Benito’s A Whole Latte Love. Soon to open is a Dunkin Donuts.

We first decided to go inside to see the market and then stop for lunch. As you enter you see a HandyMan Hardware store which is owned by Robinsons and the Market straight ahead.

There is also a small Food stand where you can buy something to eat with high standing tables.

As we entered the market I was first struck with the bright lighting and a nice produce area. There were many items available we do not normally see at Gaisano’s market. I even saw grapefruits, even if they were as small as an orange.

Past the produce area was an area selling fish. Along the rear wall was the meat and poultry area. The regular shelves and isles were small and narrower than most markets and with the market being about half the size or less than the other markets in town, there are not large quantities or even varieties we are used to seeing. One thing I look for is the area of ground decaffeinated coffee. There were no cans of coffee to be found at all.

I know it is the first few days of opening and the store will eventually find its own personality so I will not make any judgments. All I can say is right now it is so clean and new. At the registers the lines were slow but I understand the staff is still in training mode.

I know we will go again, especially since I would like to try the food at Bangkok Wok for something different and see how the marketing has developed. It will not be our main place to shop since it is farther than our usual shopping.

The nice thing is to see more places to shop so people in the Lanang area do not have to go so far when groceries are needed. In the future there are 2 more malls to be built, AyalaCenter in Bajada which is planned to be a business and commerce center and SM City North Davao where the old Lanang Country Club was located.

A lot of Filipinos know the health advantages of eating fruits and vegetables. You see fruits available in the Mall markets, wet markets and even little stalls along the roads. They will be bought for a snack, to be brought home or eaten as a refresher as they are just walking long. Fruits are a popular gift if visiting and is traditional at holidays. Bowls of fresh fruits will be out when friend or family members are visiting.

The nice thing is Filipinos are heath conscience where it comes to fruits and they eat them regularly. Because of the low potassium in their diets Filipinos eat a lot of bananas. They are grown in abundance here and are not expensive. I like the way they make Banana-Q, they coat with sugar and fry them and sold on a stick. It is a common afternoon snack.

Some are known to us from our home countries and some are a local variety. A lot has been mentioned about Durian. For me I do not care for it, but that is not the only local fruit I will not partake. There is Jackfruit and Marang. For me Marang smells worse than Durian. I know many enjoy it and that is fine, just don’t ask me to try it, the smell is bad enough. I have never tired Jackfruit either, I was told I would not like it and I will follow that advice.

Some of the local fruits I have tried and enjoy are Mangosten, Rumbatan and Lanzones. These you break open and eat the meat that surrounds the seed. I have a little trouble eating them since my front teeth are part of a bridge and they pop out.

There is pamelos which is a large citrus fruit. To me you taste the citrus but no distinct flavor.

Of course there are mangos, grapes, different varieties of oranges, papaya, guava, pineapples, melons, Fuji apples and many varieties of banana. In some of the upper scale markets in malls you can find more imported fruits but the price reflects the importation.

Lemons are available but I do not know if grown locally. I have not seen limes. One common and widely used is calamansi. It is small 25-35 mm in diameter and has a sour taste. It is used squeezed into recipes, over foods or mixed with soy sauce. There is also a hot calamansi drink or cold and sweetened.

I apologize if I leave some out, and you can comment and tell me about them.

Produce is different. In the states you can go into the market and find many varieties of vegetables and fruits. One of the items I miss is large ripe red tomatoes, even if they were picked green and some procedure ripened them. Eggplant is the Asian type which is small and thin, not like the main variety in the states that is huge and can feed a family. There are items I had not seen before such as long beans. These are like string beans but are about 1 foot long. Potatoes are small and I have never seen any young red potatoes.

Here the tomatoes are small, a little larger than an egg and most are still green or just turning red. Lettuce and cabbage are much smaller too.

Rice. In the states I thought there were just one or two types of white rice. Here there are so many and each type has different grades. Some differences are where they are grown. Before moving here I just thought rice was rice. Yes there is brown rice and wild rice, but with wild rice the wild part is a grain, not rice.

Someone told me the quality items are exported and we get the ones that cannot get shipped out. I think it might be with the large population the growers do not let them reach maturity so they can get them to the stores.

There is something else I miss but am better off without. That is frozen convenience foods. Back in the states if I was too tired to cook or go out to eat, I could open the freezer, grab a frozen meal and pop it into the microwave.

Here we buy vegetables, meats, fruits fresh. With the frozen meals, a lot are loaded with salt and fats. Even the ones that say they are “healthy”

One of my problems is there is so much MSG used in package foods here. And then some people add more when they are cooking.

All our meals are made with fresh items and I have been showing Elena how to cook with home made sauces and not the items loaded with MSG.

What ever the reasons, this is one of my observations.

As with anyone who has moved to a new country in a different part of the world, you just need to get used to what is available and try to forget what is not available.